General Cleaning FAQ’s
House & Building Washing FAQ’s
Roof Softwash & Treatment FAQ’s
Concrete, Paver & Stone Cleaning FAQ’s
Concrete, Paver & Stone Sealing FAQ’s
Yes — if it’s done by someone who doesn’t know what they’re doing.
High pressure in the wrong hands can etch concrete & render, blow out grout, damage soft stone, or strip paint. That’s why it’s not just about the pressure — it’s about using the right nozzle, flow rate, and technique for the surface.
We’ve cleaned thousands of driveways, paths, pavers, and walls, and we know which surfaces need a gentler touch. If something needs extra care, we adjust the method — simple as that.
Short answer: a lot.
DIY or hire pressure washers are great for rinsing off some dirt — but they’re not designed for safe, effective, long-lasting results.
Most hire units come with high-pressure nozzles that blast water way too hard. Fingers crossed that it might work on your pavers without scarring them but try using that same setup on your rendered walls or painted surfaces and you’re almost certain to etch, strip, or damage them.
Here’s what we do differently:
You could spend your weekend soaked, muddy, and chasing patchy results — or we can do it once, do it properly, and leave it looking spot-on.
Most cleaning jobs are wrapped up in a single day.
That includes house washing, driveways, roofs — the majority of what we do can be completed without dragging into multiple visits.
If the job’s unusually large or something unexpected pops up, we’ll let you know straight away. And if there’s a tight deadline, we’ll schedule extra help to make sure everything gets done on time.
We don’t leave you guessing — you’ll know exactly where things are at.
It’s a low-pressure clean that removes cobwebs, dust, mould, and general grime from the outside of your home — starting from the gutters down. We clean walls, eaves, facias, window frames, and external glass.
It freshens everything up without causing damage.
Just a heads-up — a house wash doesn’t include the roof or cleaning out your gutters. We do offer roof treatments as a separate service, so we’re happy to quote it if you need it done.
Not usually. Most homes can be washed safely and effectively from the ground using our equipment this includes 2 & 3 storey homes
In rare cases — like very tall homes, tricky access points, or steep blocks — we might need access equipment like a lift. If that’s the case, we’ll let you know during the quote and walk you through the options.
Not when it’s done properly.
High-pressure cleaning can definitely cause damage — especially on painted surfaces, render, cladding, or weatherboards. That’s why we don’t use high pressure for house or building washes.
Instead, we use a low-pressure softwash method that safely removes mould, dirt, cobwebs, and stains without harming the surface. It’s effective, gentle, and designed specifically for exterior cleaning.
Your home gets cleaned — not blasted.
For most homes, once every 12–24 months is ideal.
This keeps mold, cobwebs, dust, and general grime from building up — and helps protect your paintwork and exterior surfaces over time.
If your home is in a shaded area, near trees, or close to the coast, you might need to wash it a little more often. These environments cause your home to get dirtier quicker.
If you’re not sure when it was last done — or it’s starting to look a bit tired — it’s probably time.
We use two different cleaning methods depending on what’s growing on your roof:
Roof Treatment (for lichen)
This is a low-pressure treatment designed to kill off lichen, moss, algae, and other organic growth.
We apply this specialised solution across the entire roof — it gets into the overlaps, joins, and porous surfaces where organic growth hides.
Over the next 12–18 months, the treatment gradually breaks it down, and weather takes care of the rest.
Roof Softwash (for mold)
For streaky mould and mildew, we use a low-pressure softwash that gives same-day results.
It’s a controlled application of a cleaning solution that sanitises the surface & removes the staining fast, without blasting the roof.
Both options are safe, effective, and designed to clean your roof without causing any damage. We’ll assess the condition of your roof and recommend the right method.
Most of the time — no.
The majority of roofs are cleaned from the gutter line using a ladder. We rarely need to walk on the roof itself. This approach is safer, cleaner, and gets great results without the risk of damaging tiles or sheeting.
For taller buildings or tricky access, we might need equipment like a scaffold or lift — but if that’s the case, we’ll let you know upfront and provide pricing as part of the quote.
In most cases — no.
High pressure cleaning can do more damage than good, especially on tiled or older roofs. It can crack tiles, force water into the roof cavity, and strip away protective coatings, which shortens the lifespan of the roof.
The only time high pressure cleaning is really recommended is if you’re planning to repaint the roof as part of a full restoration. In that case, a more aggressive clean is needed to prep the surface for new coatings.
But that’s not something we handle — if you’re going down that route, it’s a job for your roof restoration contractor.
For everything else — like removing mould, lichen, or moss — low-pressure treatment or softwashing is safer, cleaner, and gets results without the risks.
Not all epoxy floors are built the same — and most don’t hold up.
Prep Work That Actually Matters
Great epoxy starts with proper prep — and most contractors skip it or half-do it.
We diamond grind and shot blast every floor to maximise adhesion. We don’t roll the dice. We play it safe — because we want you to have a floor that actually lasts.
Rapid Return to Service
Most floors are done in a single day, thanks to our rapid-cure materials from the USA and multiple technicians onsite.
Other systems take 3 visits, slow-cure products, and a week off your space. Ours? Walk on it next day, drive on it 24 hours later.
Industry-Leading Warranty
We offer the longest residential warranty in the industry — 20 years.
We can back that up because we put in the time where it matters: surface prep. Others offer 5–10 years. We double it.
You’re Not Chasing a One-Man Band
We’re not some tapped-out solo tradie who takes a week to reply.
You’ve got access to a dedicated customer service team — so if you’ve got a question, it gets answered. If there’s an issue, it gets handled.
Most roofs stay clean for 5+ years after a professional treatment — but it really depends on your environment.
If your home is surrounded by trees, especially ones that overhang the roof, you’ll likely see moss, lichen, and grime come back sooner. Shade, moisture, and organic debris all speed up regrowth.
In more open areas with plenty of sun and airflow, your roof will usually stay cleaner for much longer.
We’ll always give you an idea of what to expect based on your property when quoting.
Yes — we take every precaution to protect your property.
Our cleaning solutions are biodegradable and designed to break down safely, but we still treat your garden like it’s our own. We pre-wet plants and landscaping before and after the job, and we apply the treatment carefully to minimise any overspray or runoff.
Our goal is simple: get your roof clean without causing any harm to what’s below it.
Most surfaces that are just dirty from mould, algae, moss, or general grime come up really well — often looking close to new (or as good as an existing surface can).
Our process is designed to target organic growth — the stuff that makes most driveways, paths, and pavers look tired.
That said, not all stains are created equal. Inorganic stains like rust, mineral deposits from pots, oil spills, pet urine or old automotive fluids may not come out fully — even with a professional clean.
If there’s something specific you’re worried about, just ask. We’ll let you know upfront what to expect.
In most cases, by the time we arrive, the “sand” between the pavers is more like a mix of moss, dirt, and organic build-up.
To properly clean the surface, we pressure wash the area — and that will remove most of whatever’s in the joints, including any remaining sand or debris.
After cleaning, it’s recommended to re-sand the joints using a proper paver lock product. This helps stabilise the pavers, reduce weed growth, and improve the finished look.
We can quote to supply and install the sand once the surface is dry — or you can DIY it if you prefer.
It depends on how dirty the surface is and what kind of staining we’re dealing with.
If your pavers are covered in years of mould, we can get a solid result with commercial-grade pressure cleaning — but keep in mind, that only removes what’s on the surface. Mould spores often linger, which means the area can get dirty again sooner.
To make the clean last longer and get the surface looking brighter, we often apply a post-treatment solution. It sanitises the area and helps prevent rapid regrowth.
Bottom line — the dirtier or more stained the surface, the more likely we’ll need to use both pressure and cleaning solutions to get the best result.
It really depends on where the surface is and what it’s exposed to.
We’ll clean and sanitise the area properly, but how long it stays clean depends on things like sunlight, drainage, nearby trees, and general foot traffic.
Areas in full sun tend to stay looking fresh for longer. But if it’s a shady, damp area — like the path down the side of the house — you can expect mould and grime to return a bit quicker. That’s just the nature of the environment.
Applying a high-quality sealer can help stretch out the time between cleans. It won’t make the surface maintenance-free, and it definitely won’t clean itself, but it does mean that when it does get dirty again, it’s easier to clean and less likely to stain.
No — and here’s why.
That cloudy or peeling look usually happens with older-style, solvent-based sealers — the kind you’ll often find at hardware stores. Those sealers sit on top of the surface and don’t let the concrete breathe. So when moisture pushes up from below, it gets trapped and causes the sealer to go milky, bubble, or peel off.
We use modern, penetrating sealers that are designed to be breathable. They soak into the surface rather than forming a skin on top, which means moisture can still pass through without damaging the finish.
No hazing. No peeling. No headaches.
It depends on how much use the area gets, but every 3–5 years is a good rule of thumb.
Driveways and other high-traffic areas usually need resealing closer to the 3-year mark. Lighter-use areas like footpaths or patios can go 5 years or more.
The sealers we use are designed to last — they’re high-quality, penetrating products, not cheap coatings that flake off in a year. But like anything exposed to weather and wear, a bit of maintenance goes a long way.
We’ll give you advice specific to your surface once the job’s done — so you’ll know exactly when to plan for a reseal.
Sealing makes your surface much easier to live with — but it’s not set-and-forget.
You’ll still need to:
The real benefit of sealing is how much easier day-to-day maintenance becomes.
Say you drop oil from the BBQ — on a sealed surface, it wipes right off.
On an unsealed one? There’s a good chance it stains.
We’ll let you know what your surface needs based on the product used and where it’s located — it’s all about helping it last longer and look better.
Not dramatically — and that’s by design.
The sealers we use may slightly enhance the natural colour of your surface, but the effect is minimal. Think of it more like a natural-look finish, not a bold colour change.
Most sealers that give that “wet look” or strong colour enhancement don’t hold up well. They often turn milky, peel, or lose their finish over time — especially when exposed to sun, moisture, or wear.
We prefer to use products that are built for long-term protection and easy maintenance, rather than chasing short-term looks that come with long-term headaches.
It comes down to quality, performance, and peace of mind.
Cheaper, hardware store sealers might seem like a good deal upfront, but they come with a lot of risk:
Worst part?
If a cheap sealer fails, fixing it isn’t cheap.
You’ll need to strip it off (which is messy and labour-intensive), re-clean the surface, and then reseal it properly. It’s far more expensive than doing it right the first time.
The sealers we use are made for long-term performance:
We only work with products that we trust to hold up, not just look good for a few months.
Because leaving them unsealed is a gamble — and you usually don’t know you’ve lost until it’s too late.
Sealing concrete, pavers, or stone adds a layer of protection against the stuff that ruins outdoor surfaces over time —
Think: oil stains, BBQ drips, moss, mold, and water ingress.
Benefits of sealing:
It won’t make the surface bulletproof, and it doesn’t mean you never have to clean again — but it makes life a whole lot easier, and it helps the surface last years longer.
It can — if the wrong product is used.
Not all sealers are created equal, and using the wrong type (like a glossy or solvent-heavy one from the hardware store) can actually make the surface more slippery than it was before.
There are different sealers for different surfaces — concrete, pavers, natural stone — and each has its own requirements when it comes to safety and slip resistance.
If you want to avoid creating a hazard around your property, let us handle it.
We use specialised, non-slip sealers that are designed for the specific surface and environment — so it stays safer and looks better.